Brand new Brooks B17, pure comfort.
Seat tube after honing.
The bastard is finally out.
Almost there.
Soaking away and praying it works.I've been promising John, I would take a look at his Lemond, that has a frozen seat post. He bought a new Brooks B17 saddle and we knew we would have to change the height of the post to compensate for the new Brooks. I brought the bike home, mounted it in my work stand and examined it. Sure enough, I could see rust from the steel frame and decided to give it a try at moving it. No way, frozen solid. I sprayed the post clamp area with P B Blaster for four days and finally got it to move. It took two more days of soaking it, before I was able to remove it completely. I honed the inside of the seat tube, to clean out the rust and corrosion and cleaned up the seat post also. Good as new.
5 comments:
That's what JS gets for all that riding in the rain.
Seems more typical on road bikes than hybrids. My roadie was well lubed but still froze. They should coat aluminum seat posts with Teflon as a matter of course, simply because of the electrolytic combination of steel seat tube with nonferrous posts. Do graphite posts fair better?
I haven't had to deal with carbon seat posts yet. I know they use a special lube to prevent slipping. John and I have road in some real down pours over the years.
Tell me about it. Still remember that Plymouth Metric. When you can't see and road cracks fill with water, it gets pretty dangerous. Lately, the snow melt has been almost as bad.
I know you can heat steel seat posts to pop corrosion, but not without damaging the finish. Doesn't matter if you're going to repaint.
Good to mark the position you're accustomed to before moving post, because it's hard to restore its exact position should you wish to.
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